rebuilding typhoon motor

ranky650

New member
i am rebuilding my typhoon motor and want some tips on what i should do, if anyone has any suggestions for me please post
 

QUICK STORM

B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

build it right the first time

-4bolt mains
-.30 over
-forged pistons and rods
-high volume oil pump

try raceprovenmotors, turbotime,campbell automotive
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

post what your "Budget" is . That will let us give you good options .
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

And your goals. Are you doing the work yourself? What kind of experience do you ahve? If you are taking it to someone be careful.
 

Bill Z

Donating Member
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

Figure on at least $3000.00 or you won't be happy with the results even for just a daily driver.

Let us know what your plans are. We want to help.
 

#2875

built, not bought
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

Bill Z said:
Figure on at least $3000.00 or you won't be happy with the results even for just a daily driver.

Let us know what your plans are. We want to help.

3K holy crap i hope you are including a set of vortec heads with that price.
 

ranky650

New member
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

well i have money to spend, but i am not trying to get the most out of the motor, i just want it to be a daily driver but not completely stock. are there any websites that list the stock specs? well any more info would help. thanks
 

wantingasy

Active member
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

ranky650 said:
well i have money to spend, but i am not trying to get the most out of the motor, i just want it to be a daily driver but not completely stock. are there any websites that list the stock specs? well any more info would help. thanks
Definately get the 4 bolt mains, forged rod and pistons, as mentioned earlier. Also, for daily driving and not stock I would go for an ultimate chip, 50# inj, 3 bar map, 20g turbo....that should be a good DD/fast street car....Probably low 12's with the right tuning...
 

#2875

built, not bought
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

ranky650 said:
well i have money to spend, but i am not trying to get the most out of the motor, i just want it to be a daily driver but not completely stock. are there any websites that list the stock specs? well any more info would help. thanks



ok there are two things here that are contradicting. you want to spend money but you aren't going to push the engine. hmm. well if you are want streetability then i would say to keep your stock turbo or get one the same size or smaller with ball bearings, something that spools up quick. since you will be staying close to stock you might as well reuse your rods and pistons, no need to go heavy duty if you aren't going to be using it, no need for 4 bolt mains. instead spend your money on vortecs, bb turbo, and ignition. run low boost. i think that would be the ultimate street machine.

also, i guarantee after you do all this work and have the engine back in you will wish you went with 4 bolt mains, forged internals, and a turbo that will require you modify or take out something just so the big bitch will fit.

just remember to have fun doing whatever it is you decide to do.
 

sleepy

Member
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

I went with a simple build my first time - then it broke. Should have saved and gone the whole way to begin with. Check into getting your crank nitrided too, that's what caused my main problems - crank stretched out the main caps...
 

#2875

built, not bought
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

sleepy said:
I went with a simple build my first time - then it broke. Should have saved and gone the whole way to begin with. Check into getting your crank nitrided too, that's what caused my main problems - crank stretched out the main caps...

WHAT !?! are you sure? can you elaborate on this? i know a couple of high hp guys running a stock 10/10 crank from the autoparts store with eagle rods with no problems.
 

SeattleSy#1255

Category 5 Conservative
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

LOL.........3K won't even get you a short block. I don't know where you guys get your figures, but 10K is much closer to realistic....that is probably a low ball figure. It does depend on his own labor of course, but assuming you are talking a build short block, forged, then throw in heads, IC, turbo, exhaust, injecters, tuning/chip, and a million small 100+ dollar items (from gaskets, cam, ARP hardware, etc), you are at 10K easy.

We haven't even discussed a tranny that can hold the power, a TC, etc..
 

#2875

built, not bought
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

all numbers are approximate, i don't have the time look up everything. also, this is assuming you have tools, brushes for cleaning your block etc.

block with crank: $50 mine was actually free... if you can't find a block for under 100 you suck, get a new hobby.

4 bolt mains: $80

arp studs $100 (big guess)

drill for 4 bolt mains: free, if you don't have or know someone with a bridgeport you need to get a new hobby.

block align bore; bore and hone cylinders; install cam bearings: $250

rods and bearings: $400

pistons: $500 (wild guess here)

cam $250

timing set $80

oil pan gasket: $30

timing cover gasket: $10

freeze plug set: $10

main /cam bearings: $50 (guess)

arp cam bolts: $30?????

ok i'm SURE i forgot something but there is a short block capable of 400HP EASY and i'm not even up to $2,000. i know things are a little more expensive in seattle but come on 10K for a SHORT BLOCK??????????

do i need to go into how to set up a set of big valve p&p vortec heads for under $500????? i know some of you pay like 3 grand for vortecs and i feel really sorry for you. it makes me so mad that people think these trucks are so expensive to mod. be smart and do some shit yourselves and don't get ripped off by vendors selling pointless mods.
 

MotorMouth

Member
Re: rebuilding typhoon motor

My old Ty, now owned by Jer, has the folowing parts:

*Stock block bored .030 over & all oil passsages/drain ports were debured and smoothed out.
*Stock crank turned down .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods & micro polished.
*New L35 rods shot peened (sp?) for stress relief & machined to accept the Speed Pro floating pins.
*L35 heads slightly worked on the intake side and machined for larger springs.
*Ported stock intake
*Comp Cams (I think LT1) springs
*GMPP billet steel 2 bolt main caps
*Z28 oil pump with welded pick-up
*Comp Cams double roller timing chain
*Speed Pro .030 over pistons with coated skirts
*Speed Pro rings
*GMPP 1.6 self alighn roller rockers
*ARP head studs
*ARP main cap bolts
*GM head gaskets
*Stock cam
*Comp Cams push rods
*Edlbrock aluminum water pump
*B&M flex plate
*Misc. gaskets and such

This was around three grand with labor, as well I assembeled the long block my self. With a T3-T4 hybrid turbo (about the size of a PTE52) 3" downpipe, A2A intercooler, 50lb injectors and alky injection this combo went a 12.2X in the 1/4 at Bandimere on pump gas (Jer may have some corrections to this, my memory may be rusty). Not a ton of equipment involved

You don't need a ton of money to go fast and be reliable.
 
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