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Josh, are you guys talking to Keystone Raceway? What motel? Let me know if you need any help with anything. I can take care of the entertainment. IE: strippers and hookers :wink:

Count me in too. It's gonna be a hell of a long drive though :P

I'll take a look at it tonight. Thanks for the info!

Mine is doing the same thing. I haven't looked at it yet but if our cruise system is like other GM's of that era, it's more than likely a bad cruise control module.

Does the Ultimate control boost in the same fashion as the stock ECM? IOW, does it look at a boost target and adj. from there? Does it have it's own boost target or does it use the stock target and just add to it? I'm asking because I would like to be able to build more boost at the lower...

i've had mine apart a few times playing with the rod adjustment. The WG is loose but I lubed it up anyway. It didn't help. I was thinking possibly a bad solenoid.

So this is a common problem?? Mine has been doing the same thing. One day I have good boost and the next I don't. Datamaster looks good. Does the Ultimate have a better handle on controling the WG solonoid? If so, I might not wait any longer to get one.

Different amounts of oil squirting is normal. That varies depending on internal manufacturing tolerances between tappets and the clearance between the tappet and the tappet bore.

There is nothing wrong with doing the "turn it down till it quits ticking" method. I use to do them that way for years. I wouldn't go the last 1/4 turn till after I had them all done and the engine shut off. But that's just my preference. You can't smack a piston that way and you won't stall...

I've never had the valve covers off my Ty so I don't know the setup but it sounds like you guys are describing a standard small block Chevy type setting procedure. If that's the case cranking them down all the way isn't good. Do the nuts have nylock or an oval threaded hole or are they a...

If you're sure you are using the proper adjusting procedure/sequence, it sounds like the nut is backing off or the stud is pulling out of the head.

I looked at your run and it's very similar to mine except the knock retard. Yours is higher and constant at WOT. Mine shows knock and tapers off to zero. Also saw a enginedata checksum error pop up a few times at WOT but I'm not real sure what that means.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the info! I'm ok with the shift quality. Just the shift RPM is to high. The more things I find out about this guy the more I realize he is a BS'er. I figured out he put 40 miles on my Ty and used a 1/4 tank of gas. This tank my mileage went from 16-17...

Pretty much the same mods I have. It will be interesting to compare. Now, if my sprint mail would just get back on line.... :evil:

I had my Ty in a trans shop to have the POS GM Serta trans' valve body reworked to firm things up and take care of a freewheeling problem on decel. After I picked it up I realized he has the WOT shift point way to high. 4900RPM for the 1-2 shift. I asked him to change the gov springs to drop...

I'd like to have a red one too. Let us know if you can do it. Thanks,

I'd like to look at it too. Is it all stock? blown85z@sprintpcs.com

Morgan, if you want to DIY a Clifford there are a few on Ebay on occasion. I just got hit with some unexpected expences. I'm going the FP switch for now...

I am looking into this too. I know they are not foolproof but it at least has to slow them down a little. Does the Clifford have the Turbo function like the Compustar? I have to pull a big hill to get to the house and sitting there idling while the turbo cools down is a PITA.

Mine squeaks too but I was assuming it was from the play in the hatch hinges. They need replaced.