Rebuilding Ty #284
- Thread starter BMFB
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BMFB
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Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
well, i decided to start posting in this thread again...
anyway, I have check for intake leaks, and exhaust leaks and have come up with nothing. I have decided to pull the 20G off of it and swap it with the known good stock turbo. I have the 20g off now and after some looking over i see that its not all that 'tight' , what I mean is the clocking clamp? I can take it and reclock the turbo by hand, its not super easy, but it can be done without trying all that hard. Also, I see where the wheel has started to touch the wall of the housing, and it has a touch of in and out play... Ill post some pics here soon.
well, i decided to start posting in this thread again...
anyway, I have check for intake leaks, and exhaust leaks and have come up with nothing. I have decided to pull the 20G off of it and swap it with the known good stock turbo. I have the 20g off now and after some looking over i see that its not all that 'tight' , what I mean is the clocking clamp? I can take it and reclock the turbo by hand, its not super easy, but it can be done without trying all that hard. Also, I see where the wheel has started to touch the wall of the housing, and it has a touch of in and out play... Ill post some pics here soon.
BMFB
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Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
with the tune i had and the 17c it made 24psi before my foot ran out of pedal. I set the 1st default boost setting to 0 and zero's out my boost tables, base boost was 10, which it made instantly and held fairly well except for the predictable 65mph spike of 3 psi. after a few tunes I got 16 psi at about 87% DC with the same 21psi spike I always had. With some more tuning I know I can get it to sit pretty steady at 20-24 psi, which I know the motor will take. I will also note, that The stock turbo still had a pretty good feel to it, at 15 psi, i will say it wasn't far off of the apparently broken 20G. I'll have to take it to the track, and go for the 17c record (lol).
Also, taking off the turbo wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be. steps:
take fender well out
remove batt tray.
remove hotside pipe, and I also remove the solenoid and actuator.
take off oil lines, coolant lines, they're all diff sizes, and therefore annoying.
take off turbo bolts, dp bolts.
pry turbo off manifold and dp
lift turbo off manifold, clear of the studs, and then off of the dp, my dp was still bolted to the trans during this whole process.
repeat, but backwards
amazingly enough, getting the turbo off was harder than getting it back on.
I need to get my 20G rebuilt, and possible bore it out on the intake side, Ill have to contact campbell and a few others and see what it takes.
a special thanks to ken, for letting me bounce ideas off of him, and not being angry for calling him for nearly no reason in the middle of the night. also for the kindness, and generosity, and endless advice and wisdom.
with the tune i had and the 17c it made 24psi before my foot ran out of pedal. I set the 1st default boost setting to 0 and zero's out my boost tables, base boost was 10, which it made instantly and held fairly well except for the predictable 65mph spike of 3 psi. after a few tunes I got 16 psi at about 87% DC with the same 21psi spike I always had. With some more tuning I know I can get it to sit pretty steady at 20-24 psi, which I know the motor will take. I will also note, that The stock turbo still had a pretty good feel to it, at 15 psi, i will say it wasn't far off of the apparently broken 20G. I'll have to take it to the track, and go for the 17c record (lol).
Also, taking off the turbo wasn't as hard as i thought it was going to be. steps:
take fender well out
remove batt tray.
remove hotside pipe, and I also remove the solenoid and actuator.
take off oil lines, coolant lines, they're all diff sizes, and therefore annoying.
take off turbo bolts, dp bolts.
pry turbo off manifold and dp
lift turbo off manifold, clear of the studs, and then off of the dp, my dp was still bolted to the trans during this whole process.
repeat, but backwards
amazingly enough, getting the turbo off was harder than getting it back on.
I need to get my 20G rebuilt, and possible bore it out on the intake side, Ill have to contact campbell and a few others and see what it takes.
a special thanks to ken, for letting me bounce ideas off of him, and not being angry for calling him for nearly no reason in the middle of the night. also for the kindness, and generosity, and endless advice and wisdom.
epix
Typhoon
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Great work so far, you liking the coilovers? I'm going with 550lb springs for a bit softer of a ride. When it comes time to put these coilovers on I might ask you for some wrenching help.. I'd supply the beer and pizza of course
If you hit up any other Kzoo area Auto-X's let me know.
Great work so far, you liking the coilovers? I'm going with 550lb springs for a bit softer of a ride. When it comes time to put these coilovers on I might ask you for some wrenching help.. I'd supply the beer and pizza of course
If you hit up any other Kzoo area Auto-X's let me know.
Beavis
Still plays with trucks
BMFB
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Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
also I own him 35 bucks
epix: If your in the area I can give you ride in it to see what their like, I really like them, But i could easy see others not liking them...at all. As far as getting them on I would no issue giving you a hand. i will let you know about the events, I do know that there is one more happening, but it is in pontiac, at the silver dome on the 16th or 17th.
also I own him 35 bucks
epix: If your in the area I can give you ride in it to see what their like, I really like them, But i could easy see others not liking them...at all. As far as getting them on I would no issue giving you a hand. i will let you know about the events, I do know that there is one more happening, but it is in pontiac, at the silver dome on the 16th or 17th.
Beavis
Still plays with trucks
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Well, I have come to the conclusion that my 20G is in need of maintanance. I have called around and the lowest price I could find was 500 bucks to rebuild it, and that was if I was 'lucky' as they put it, so I have decided to do it myself. I have found a good place to buy parts from that seems legit, and not an ebay company, and I have seen alot of the dsm guys use called the g-pop shop. I do need to start taking it apart to see if its a flatback or a superback style wheel, which I will do prolly tonight. From what I have seen, it shouldn't be to bad, as long as its not completly ****ed.
I have also contacted superior turbo in detroit, and they said that they could balance it for 40 bucks. so for cost, I should be under 200 bucks (135 for kit, 40 for balance) If anyone has done this before and has any input, please let me know, I love advice!
Well, I have come to the conclusion that my 20G is in need of maintanance. I have called around and the lowest price I could find was 500 bucks to rebuild it, and that was if I was 'lucky' as they put it, so I have decided to do it myself. I have found a good place to buy parts from that seems legit, and not an ebay company, and I have seen alot of the dsm guys use called the g-pop shop. I do need to start taking it apart to see if its a flatback or a superback style wheel, which I will do prolly tonight. From what I have seen, it shouldn't be to bad, as long as its not completly ****ed.
I have also contacted superior turbo in detroit, and they said that they could balance it for 40 bucks. so for cost, I should be under 200 bucks (135 for kit, 40 for balance) If anyone has done this before and has any input, please let me know, I love advice!
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Nope thats not the reason gotts keep him happy so he will make meatballs again
Nope thats not the reason gotts keep him happy so he will make meatballs again
Beavis
Still plays with trucks
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
So thats the reason, you want something from him......got it.....:tup:
Nope thats not the reason gotts keep him happy so he will make meatballs again
So thats the reason, you want something from him......got it.....:tup:
warmpancakes
New member
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
After watching a few videos and reading up on this, I decided to go for it.
fist off, This seems to be an issue. Obvious carving of the rear thrust collar into the backside of the thrust plate. this would explain the slight in and out play...
The shaft looks alright, I can see some scuffs from the bearing surfaces, but I cannot 'feel' them.
No bent fins
Just started to kiss the housing, but I cannot see any obvious damage to the compressor wheel. i am going to be getting this balanced at a local shop for around 40 bucks. Also, as a note, I found a good parts dealer that seems mitsu spec'd parts for 55 bucks shipped.
all of inside of turbo
I am hoping to get this stuff balanced tomorrow. I am not sure of what all I need, I have read the compressor wheel, exhaust wheel/shaft, but I have also read 'thrust parts' which I am confused about. I will call them tomorrow. If they can do it, I will make sure that it can be balanced before I buy the kit. Just in case its ruined. like I said, this thing would not make more than 15 psi without a big 3rd gear surge.
Another thing I noted was that the waste gate would not close completely if you were to push the puck down, on the side closest to the fulcrum. It would hang up, with the puck getting caught just inside the lip and stay opened, no matter how hard you tried to close it. I took a rat tail file and smoothed this area out, and the issue seems to be resolved. I imagine with 20psi of exhaust coming through that hole that it might get pushed in this manor often, and might have lead to my initial issue.
I will get some pictures when I get it all back together. or pictures of me melting it with a torch, depending on how it goes. Also, I may look into going with a bigger compressor side wheel/housing, but my guess is that would be 500 bucks.
After watching a few videos and reading up on this, I decided to go for it.
fist off, This seems to be an issue. Obvious carving of the rear thrust collar into the backside of the thrust plate. this would explain the slight in and out play...
The shaft looks alright, I can see some scuffs from the bearing surfaces, but I cannot 'feel' them.
No bent fins
Just started to kiss the housing, but I cannot see any obvious damage to the compressor wheel. i am going to be getting this balanced at a local shop for around 40 bucks. Also, as a note, I found a good parts dealer that seems mitsu spec'd parts for 55 bucks shipped.
all of inside of turbo
I am hoping to get this stuff balanced tomorrow. I am not sure of what all I need, I have read the compressor wheel, exhaust wheel/shaft, but I have also read 'thrust parts' which I am confused about. I will call them tomorrow. If they can do it, I will make sure that it can be balanced before I buy the kit. Just in case its ruined. like I said, this thing would not make more than 15 psi without a big 3rd gear surge.
Another thing I noted was that the waste gate would not close completely if you were to push the puck down, on the side closest to the fulcrum. It would hang up, with the puck getting caught just inside the lip and stay opened, no matter how hard you tried to close it. I took a rat tail file and smoothed this area out, and the issue seems to be resolved. I imagine with 20psi of exhaust coming through that hole that it might get pushed in this manor often, and might have lead to my initial issue.
I will get some pictures when I get it all back together. or pictures of me melting it with a torch, depending on how it goes. Also, I may look into going with a bigger compressor side wheel/housing, but my guess is that would be 500 bucks.
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Well, I went to superior turbo on lunch today and was pretty suprised. They balanced it right on the spot, and cleaned the wheels and shaft up for 40 bucks. They also sold me a rebuild kit for 70. Nice guys. Had a couple words of 'good' news, I got the wheel compressor wheel back and noticed he had cut 3 deep grooves in the back to balance it. I asked " wow that seems like alot, is that normal?" he said no, I'd be suprised if it built 10psi like that. I also explained what I had found with my puck, and how it seemed like it cought, they said they had heard of that before, and it was a somwhat common issue with them, they would only build 15 psi max with the pucks like that :roll:
I'll be trying to put it back together either tonight or tomorrow, Ill post some pics up
Well, I went to superior turbo on lunch today and was pretty suprised. They balanced it right on the spot, and cleaned the wheels and shaft up for 40 bucks. They also sold me a rebuild kit for 70. Nice guys. Had a couple words of 'good' news, I got the wheel compressor wheel back and noticed he had cut 3 deep grooves in the back to balance it. I asked " wow that seems like alot, is that normal?" he said no, I'd be suprised if it built 10psi like that. I also explained what I had found with my puck, and how it seemed like it cought, they said they had heard of that before, and it was a somwhat common issue with them, they would only build 15 psi max with the pucks like that :roll:
I'll be trying to put it back together either tonight or tomorrow, Ill post some pics up
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Got it done, it doesn't spin as freely as it did, but I'm going to blame that on being filled with slick 50 assembly lube.
a bit of balancing was done...
slight assembly
some more assembly
Gonna try to get this installed this weekend, maybe even go to the track on saturday.
Got it done, it doesn't spin as freely as it did, but I'm going to blame that on being filled with slick 50 assembly lube.
a bit of balancing was done...
slight assembly
some more assembly
Gonna try to get this installed this weekend, maybe even go to the track on saturday.
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
Brian i have a ceramic coater who could have exhaust housing done quick for ya
Brian i have a ceramic coater who could have exhaust housing done quick for ya
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284
I found out that the exhaust housing is cracked right where the wastegate flapper is, which is why the gate would hang up when it was closing sometimes. I decided that I wasn't loosing much air though it, and filed it down so that it would catch less. I don't think its worth coating, but I am on the hunt for a new housing.
what kind of turbo's are they, and whats wrong with them? I can take a look at them. Let me know when you want to come by
I found out that the exhaust housing is cracked right where the wastegate flapper is, which is why the gate would hang up when it was closing sometimes. I decided that I wasn't loosing much air though it, and filed it down so that it would catch less. I don't think its worth coating, but I am on the hunt for a new housing.
what kind of turbo's are they, and whats wrong with them? I can take a look at them. Let me know when you want to come by