Rebuilding Ty #284

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

well, its getting better all of the time...

I got the trans cooler mounted, its the 16 pass derale cooler with a fan. I mounted it in front of the back axle on the driver side. Running the lines was kind of a pain, I did hardline from the trans, down the pass. side frame rail, up across the exhaust and driveshaft and then over to the cooler. I mounted the switch behind my alky control box in that black plastic piece that covers the lower heat ducts. just driving down the highway with it OFF it keeps the trans 20*F cooler. Unfortunately the first switch I choose could not handle the amps and melted (old mystery switch I found) so I had to replace it today with a better one I bought.

I took it to the woodward cruise last night and ended up running a built srt-4 neon. we talked for awhile about our cars, he said his "ran 12.5's on slicks before he had it tuned" and he refused to do a dig on grounds he would be destroyed, so the best I could get out of him was a 30 roll, as that was the slowest he could go without traction issues. First run went bad, as he spooled much faster than me, the second run he let me have the punch and we hung side by side until about 110 when I let off. I was happy for only running 16psi.

On that note, I am still investigating what to do about my gate issue. I need to either buy a forge, or modify what I have, either by means of cutting the stock actuator open (I have a spare) or adding a spring. I haven't decided what to do.

Still have a small leak in the trans lines...need to solve that. also replaced my boost gauge light that went out on my way home last night.

my tcc is acting up, I think its a solenoid. I am going to play with it and them most likely end up replacing it.

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Today was an expencive day.

I bought blocks for the back. I decided to go with blocks rather than the drop leafs simply because I coudn't justify the cost. I couldn't find anyone who had trouble with blocks when they were set up correctly, and from what I can tell the belltechs are a bit weaker. To add to the blocks I got setback plates, and pinion correction wedges (3*). I also found a cheap blazer extreme rear sway bar, and I bought a set of the monroe LL coil overs for the back to replace the new bilstiens I now need to sell.

I also got a new shurflo pump, to replace my broken one on my intercooler system, its been broken for some time it seems, but I never really noticed thanks to alky.

I also got a set of eibach 2.25, 600lbs 9 inch coilovers, the qa1 coilover ready shocks that everyone gets, and the bearing kit ro replace the bushings.

Hopefully when Im done this thing will handle a bit better...

 

[neildemo]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Nice would like to come down and see since your 45 mins away. I will take your old bilsteins.
Txt me 989-239-9393 ---Neil

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Did some suspension work over the weekend. Here is what it looked like before I started:

Yea, that's pretty stock looking...Here is a pic of the stuff I installed:

List includes a stock xtreme blazer rear sway bar, energy suspension end links, monroe load leveling coil over shocks (replaces the stock shocks, fits into stock mounts, way stiffer) and a set of 2 inch blocks, axle setback plates, and 2* pinion correction shims, as well as new U bolts. The entire drop block winds out to be about 2 1/2 inches.

couple of pics of stuff installed. I didn't take any pics of it being worked on, slipped my mind.

(that was before they were torqued)

I tried to fight the old U bolts off, but they fought too hard, and I ended up torching them off. Luckily there was nothing rubber that I couldn't get out of the way, and I kept heat off the brake lines pretty well. Getting the blocks in wasn't to bad, I did one side first, and kinda snugged it together, and then did the other side. It's important to note that to use the axle setback plates you have to modify the leaf slightly. There is a bolt on the bottom of the leaf whee the plate sits, you have to cut the 'excess' bolt that it protruding from the nut, and grind about 1/8 of an inch off of the nut on the front side (front being direction of the front of the truck). Getting the coil over shocks in was not easy, as the top is much wider than a stock shock, but with some work I got it. Getting the sway bar on was pretty easy, drilling the holes out was the hardest part. Also, the driver side brake line was in the way a bit of the U bolt that holds the bar in, and although I tried my best I ended up cracking the line and having to replace it. After I got everything in I torqued the u8 bolts to 85ft/lbs, and took 10 turns off of the front torsion bars, and came out with these results:

it does't seem to be hitting the bump stops

I had to replace the intercooler relay. Long story short I have a shurflo pump for sale...(embarrassed)

Also, I got those rear shocks off, and they need to be cleaned up a bit, but they seems just as stiff as when I took them off. I'll get some pics of those up.

I was out tuning tonight and had some fun. It handles SO MUCH BETTER. It doesn't have nearly the roll it did, as a matter of fact it feels nearly as solid as my cobalt ss. I can't wait to get the front coil-overs in, they should be here by september 3rd. I found an empty parking lot (that had no polls) and made a little coarse out in my mind and lapped it a few times. All I can say is I've never shaken like that from driving up 60, it comes out of corners amazing,and it can take corners harder than I tried to. brakes and seats seems to be the weak points of the truck at this point, at least in that respect. Thanks to the cooler I never saw trans temps over 180.

Tune is getting better all of the time. While I was tuning I took this pic:

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I cancled my order for the 9 inch 2.25 600lbs springs from eibach and switched to 8 inch springs. They are both are on backorder, but the 9's will be so for at least 6 weeks, where the 8s will be ready by next week.

I dropped off my spring cups to one of our suppliers who does machining here at work, he said it would be a couple days and he could get them done during lunch, didn't say what he was gonna charge me. Can't wait to get those in

 

[Smkur50]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I was wondering if anyone has tryed using those coilovers and taking out all but one leaf spring to reduce some weight?

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I was wondering if anyone has tryed using those coilovers and taking out all but one leaf spring to reduce some weight?

I initially took out the over load spring my belltech but I read up that cause additional axle wrap on boost launches. My overall goal is quicker 1/4 mile times so I put them back.

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

been working pretty steady as of late.

I replaced my wastegate with one off of a PTE turbo, it took some modification, but it seems to work fine.

cut a 17C bracket apart and the pte actuator bracket off and started to fit them together.

wielded it like this on both sides, I would have liked to wield it a bit more, but keeping all of that heat off of the actuator was a real challenge. even though this looks weak, it doesn't bend at all, and should not fatigue (time will tell)

rod mod

mounted to truck.

I took this out to an auto x event at 131 motorpark. I got third in my class of 9 (F stock) I felt weird running a truck so modified, but I talked to the guys and they seemed to think it was fair. after seeing the rest of 'f-stock' and how stock they all were, I felt better again...

first off, this truck felt great. The body roll wasn't uncontrollable, but it was there. brakes were AMAZING compared to what I thought they were gonna be. it took corners well, and it could use the brakes and motor to guide me though corners with pretty good accuracy. my biggest problem was the fast slalom, truck had a bit to much roll. Also, this was only my second time ever racing a car, and first time ever racing a truck, so my driver skill is not yet that of 'expert'.

here is a link to the results of that day http://www.furrin.org/Results/tabid...ikers-for-Babies-Autocross--PAX--9112011.aspx

I have ordered a new set of lowering blocks for the back (going to a 3 inch to replace the 2) and have finally gotten these things together, I think these will help me in a big way around the track.

 

[Sean Krupa]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Can you give me some more info on the Front Coil overs and where you got them? Those are for the stock arms, correct?

I'm curious to see how you like them and the mods needed to install them.

Thanks,

 

[Injected1]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Agreed more info on coilovers as well as handling changes once installed.

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Alright, what I went with for parts were:

Shock - QA1 DR4855P aka DS402 (thanks PPI Typhoon!)
Springs -Eibach 0800.225.0600 (8 inches long, 2.25 ID 600lbs/inch) , need 1" spacer
Spacer - GEN-GC1032
Bearing Kit - COM8T-102PK

this is a list that I partially copied from epix, except for the springs.

Now, to get the clearance that is needed to have these fit without major modification you have to use a 2.25 spring, and to get those springs to fit over the shock you need to have the spring perches machined to about 2.25 (mine were actually machined to 2.28, but I had the springs there to measure to see what they really needed to be). to do this I had a supplier for my company machine them for me. They took the perches and cut them on a lathe, to get the top cup from crushing (it has a notch in it so that it can slip over the perch) they had to cut a slug and put it in place in the gap.

The torsion bars were a bitch. I read on here for a while about how easy it was, and how it could be done in 30 minutes. I could not get them to budge, but them again, I had the truck 2 feet in the air and was beating on them with a hammer. I could have tried to use a clamp and press them out but I decided it would be easyor to torch them out. After 10 minutes of torching I had both cut, and 10 minutes after letting them cool I had them on the floor. To get them out of the chops I firmly attached a set of vise grips to the end of the bar, and used that as a place to hit with a hammer outword. came out pretty easy. The cross member remains in place, as it appears to be riveted to the top of the frame rail. I am not sure of the best way to remove it.

When I put them in the first time (yea you may have to do this a couple times) I split the top ball joint. I removed the old (new) shock and slid the new qa1's in to see how they fit. it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I had to do a lot of grinding on the back of the A arm, which sucked, and the rest of was all for nothing as I later discovered, but I thought that the adjustment ring was going to be alot higher then it ended up being so I cut a bit for clearance for that. after using washers to space the shock as bestly possible I sat the truck down and it was just riding on the bumpstops. after discovering that the shock could be removed without taking the ball-joint apart by unbolting it, and using a jack to lift and lower the front suspension assembly as needed, and with some turning of the wheel i was able to adjust them to where they are now

front is at 26.5 inches. the rear now has a 3 inch drop and axle setback plates. with the LL coilovers in the back, it is very stiff, even compared to how it was with a 2 inch drop.


this is a great referance to use http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49528&highlight=bumpstops&page=6

now, this is setup for handling, and from what I found this seems to work very well. they are just above the bumbstops, and the shocks are set to 9 of 15. the truck does not have much roll at all, and the last race i took it to I was told I was lifting one of the front wheels off the ground. the only thing holding back my handling at this point seems to be the tires (BFG G-force 245/50/16) although they do very well. I was thinking of changing to a hoosier slick but, I think some more driving skill would pay off better, although I seem to be catching on. I learned alot about how this truck handles and how to get it to 'work' better at the last event.

The ride is very firm, but, thats what I am going for. The roll has been significantly reduced, and I still only have the shocks setup at half of the firmness. the rate at which the vehicle goes from being in an upset state to a non upset state is reduced, I find it slaloms better, and come out of turns more predictably. It is easyor to drive it smoothly simply because I am not on a 30* pitch every time I am coming out of a turn.

The power steering seems to not like fast turns followed by immediate other fast turns, and my arms were a bit tired after a few runs.

also, I believe I have a boost leak

 

[Sean Krupa]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Have you tried boost launching yet? If so, is it flatter when you launch? Do you feel the Front coilovers was well worth the $$?

Thanks,

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

its much flatter, although a side effect is that it will sometimes do this fun little hop coming out of a turn (don't think thats the coilovers)

this is about as hard as you can turn a truck on stock tires, its pretty flat, hangin a wheel, I was prolly going 25

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

went looking for a boost leak. I took my brake booster hose off of the barb and hooked my regulated ail line up to it. I took it to about 9 psi and air was pouring out of the coupler between the intercooler and the throttlebody. I re positioned it and tightened it and it seemed to slow the leaking by alot, although it was still leaking some. I did all of this last night, and could not get any new parts.

I took it to the strip today for some tuning, and decided that because I had gotten the motor hot that it would be a good idea to tighten that clamp a bit more, and immediately broke it. I had an extra one, but could not be sure that it wasn't leaking like it was originally. I and turned a 12.9 @ 103 first run. all day I could not make more than 15 psi, but after adding some timing and tuning my fuel curves I managed to run a 12.54 @107.

Need to tackle my boost leak

 

[Sean Krupa]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I'm amazed on your 1/4 mile times. I ran my Ty last month and got 13.5 @99mph with a 1.8 60' at 15-16psi. I'm also tuning with Code59 with the mods below.

I now have Alky and running 20psi. Hopefully I can get a 12.9.

I know you have L35 heads and a cam with a 20g so that explains the time difference.

Keep up the good work!

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I had a hard time with my 60s. My best was like a 1.77 which was also on that rur but I spent alot of time in the 1.8s. I am suprised its doing this as well actually. There's gotta be some time left to cut down. I am hoping that I can getmy boost issues fixed before winter.

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I checked for leaks today and found a few. I managed to get rid of all but 1, which was coming out of my throttle body, where the shaft for the butterflies comes out and 'attaches' to the TP sensor. it seemed like a pretty large leak. I see that I can buy a new one for a few hundred, but I am going to call a few local companies and see if they can do a simple rebuild and get it worked out for me.

 

[neildemo]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Brian I think I have a Similar proble can you take a pic. Where is the Tp sensor located?

 

[BMFB]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

I can't get a pic right now, but the sensor is on the back of the throttle body. mine seems like it is leaking alot of air, but theres no real way to be sure. I cannot find any other significant leaks on my setup.

also, I have that set of shocks and pump off the truck now

 

[warmpancakes]

Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

throttle shaft leaking is common, send the TB out and have it rebuilt

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd...49&item=230426189214&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT